Stories: Renaissance Pasta. Bartolomeo Scappi and the Art of Italian Cooking (1570)
When you think of pasta today, you might imagine steaming bowls of spaghetti, layered lasagna, or delicate ravioli. But did you know that many of these beloved dishes were already being perfected over 450 years ago? Enter Bartolomeo Scappi, the Renaissance chef who cooked for Pope Pius V and documented his culinary genius in Opera dell’Arte del Cucinare, published in 1570.
Scappi’s book isn’t just a cookbook — it’s a window into 16th-century Italian kitchens, a detailed guide to ingredients, techniques, and tools that laid the foundation for modern pasta. In his work, pasta appears in multiple forms: baked, boiled, stuffed, and layered, showcasing both practicality and artistry.
Pasta in Renaissance Italy
- In Scappi’s time, pasta was no longer just a peasant staple or a simple luxury. It had become a versatile ingredient that could be humble or grand, depending on the context. For everyday meals, pasta was boiled and lightly seasoned, perhaps with cheese, butter, or herbs. For banquets and celebrations, it could be layered, stuffed, baked, or paired with elaborate sauces.
What’s fascinating is how detailed Scappi was about pasta preparation and presentation. He emphasized the right shapes for each dish, how sauces should cling to noodles, and even how pasta should be arranged on platters — a true reflection of Renaissance aesthetics. He also included illustrations of rolling pins, knives, and molds, showing that even the tools of pasta-making were being perfected.
5 Iconic Pasta Recipes from Scappi
Here are some standout recipes that show how sophisticated pasta was in the 1570s:
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Lasagne al Forno with Ricotta and Herbs
Sheets of fresh pasta layered with ricotta, aromatic herbs, and a light sauce, then baked to golden perfection. Think of it as the ancestor of today’s lasagna, combining simplicity and elegance. -
Ravioli Ripieni di Carne
Delicate ravioli stuffed with spiced meat and served with a light broth or sauce. These were often served at banquets and demonstrate the Renaissance love for filled pasta. -
Maccheroni con Formaggio e Erbe
Tubular pasta boiled and tossed with cheese, butter, and fresh herbs. A practical yet flavorful dish, perfect for everyday meals. -
Lasanette with Spinach and Cheese
Miniature lasagna-style sheets baked with greens and ricotta, ideal for smaller gatherings or side dishes. -
Pasta in Brodo
Simple pasta boiled in a seasoned broth with bits of vegetables or meats. A nourishing, comforting dish that was common in both elite and modest households.
Why Scappi’s Pasta Matters Today
Reading Scappi today, it’s striking how modern his recipes feel. Many of his techniques — layering, stuffing, baking, pairing sauces with pasta shapes — are still core to Italian cooking. He captures both the practical and artistic sides of pasta, showing that even centuries ago, Italians understood that texture, flavor, and presentation mattered equally.
Scappi’s work also reminds us that pasta was not static. By the 16th century, it had evolved from humble dough sheets to a canvas for culinary creativity. It could comfort, impress, or celebrate, depending on how it was prepared.
Fun Facts from the Renaissance Kitchen
- Scappi’s cookbook contains over 1,000 recipes and includes illustrations of pasta-making tools.
- Renaissance pasta was both everyday food and festive centerpiece, depending on ingredients and presentation.
- Stuffed pasta like ravioli was already a delicacy for banquets, centuries before it became common in home kitchens.
- Lasagne and baked pasta dishes were considered elegant, reflecting the artistry of Italian chefs.
- Scappi’s attention to pasta shape and sauce pairing foreshadows modern Italian culinary philosophy.
A Taste of History
Next time you enjoy a baked lasagna or a delicate ravioli, imagine walking through a Renaissance kitchen, watching a chef like Scappi roll sheets of dough, carefully fill each pasta pillow, and layer it with herbs and cheese. These recipes aren’t just meals; they’re history on a plate — a delicious reminder that pasta has been perfected over centuries, blending practicality, creativity, and love in every bite.
