Stories: Pasta at the Turn of the 18th Century: Antonio Latini and Lo Scalco alla Moderna

By the late 17th century, pasta had traveled far from its humble beginnings. No longer just a Neapolitan staple or Renaissance curiosity, it had become a central feature in Italian cuisine — both for everyday tables and lavish feasts. One of the key figures documenting this evolution was Antonio Latini, steward and chef for noble households in Rome and Naples. His landmark cookbook, Lo Scalco alla Moderna, published in 1692, captures the sophistication and accessibility of pasta in the Baroque period.

Latini’s work is more than just a collection of recipes — it’s a window into the kitchens of Italian aristocracy and the culinary culture of the time. He provides instructions for maccheroni, lasagna, and other pasta dishes, showing how chefs could turn simple ingredients into both nourishing meals and works of art.

Pasta in Latini’s Era

By 1692, pasta had benefited from centuries of refinement. Mechanical presses in Naples had begun producing uniform shapes, bronze dies ensured sauces clung perfectly, and dried pasta allowed dishes to travel beyond the home kitchen. Latini’s recipes reflect this new world: pasta was versatile, elegant, and ready for experimentation.

Some key trends from his cookbook:

• Maccheroni with sauces: Latini describes pasta boiled with olive oil, cheese, and aromatic herbs, showing the simplicity that had become standard for everyday meals.
• Baked pasta (al forno): Elaborate lasagna and layered pasta dishes were highlighted for festive occasions, often with meat, cheese, and béchamel-like sauces.
• Pasta as a canvas: Latini’s recipes frequently combine different pasta shapes with complementary sauces and ingredients, emphasizing texture and flavor harmony.

5 Iconic Pasta Recipes from Lo Scalco alla Moderna

Here are some standout pasta dishes from Latini’s cookbook:

1. Maccheroni alla Napoletana – Boiled tubular pasta served with olive oil, cheese, and a hint of herbs; a simple yet satisfying dish that was perfect for workers and families.
2. Lasagna al Forno – Layered pasta with cheese, béchamel, and sometimes meat, baked until golden. A festive dish, often served at noble banquets.
3. Maccheroni con Pomodoro e Basilico – Early tomato-based sauce with pasta, showing the integration of New World ingredients into Italian cuisine.
4. Tortellini di Carne in Brodo – Small stuffed pasta in seasoned broth, a comforting dish for colder months or special meals.
5. Fagottini di Pasta Ripieni – Little bundles of pasta filled with ricotta, spinach, or meat, demonstrating creativity and elegance in presentation.

Why Latini’s Pasta Matters

Latini’s cookbook reflects the transitional period in Italian pasta history. By the late 17th century:

• Pasta had moved from artisan and aristocratic kitchens into broader daily use.
• Recipes included both practical everyday dishes and elaborate preparations for special occasions.
• The combination of dried pasta, local ingredients, and refined techniques set the stage for the 18th-century pasta boom in Naples and beyond.

Latini also emphasized clarity in instruction — showing that pasta could be mastered systematically, rather than relying solely on intuition or apprenticeship. This helped standardize pasta recipes and techniques for future generations.

Fun Facts from Latini’s Era

• Lo Scalco alla Moderna was one of the first cookbooks to clearly describe maccheroni and lasagna with sauces.
• Tomato sauces were becoming popular, but they were still a relatively new ingredient in Italian cuisine.
• Pasta could be a luxurious feast or an everyday staple — versatility was key.
• Latini documented precise cooking times and layering techniques, foreshadowing modern pasta recipe standards.
• Little stuffed pasta bundles (fagottini) were considered an elegant touch for noble tables, demonstrating early pasta artistry.