Ingredient: Pomodoro a Pera d’Abruzzo
The Tomato That Climbs the Hills
1 · The Red You Don’t Forget
Not every tomato is born to be a celebrity.
Some, like the Pomodoro a Pera d’Abruzzo, live quiet lives on sun-baked hillsides, unknown outside the region yet unforgettable to anyone who tastes them.
You recognise them instantly: plump at the base, tapering at the top, shaped like a small pear — hence the name.
Their colour is a deep orange-red, the skin thin and tender, the flesh dense and almost dry.
They are not the glossy, photo-ready type.
They are the ones that make sauce sing.
This is not a tomato for showing off — it’s a tomato for living with.
2 · Born Between Sea and Mountain
The Pear Tomato of Abruzzo isn’t an import, nor a modern hybrid.
It’s the child of small coastal farms between Francavilla al Mare, Ortona, Miglianico, and Lanciano, where vegetables, olives, and vines share the same patches of land.
Local farmers selected it over generations from older native strains, perfecting it for the sandy, iron-rich soils and mild Adriatic climate.
Its story really takes shape in the early 20th century, when families began preserving tomatoes for the winter.
While the rest of Italy drifted towards industrial round varieties, Abruzzo stayed loyal to this slightly awkward shape — slower to ripen, lower-yielding, but unmatched in sweetness and depth.
In this land of patience, that made perfect sense.
3 · How It Grows
The Pomodoro a Pera doesn’t care for haste.
Seeds go into the ground in spring; the harvest doesn’t arrive until the fruit has absorbed enough sunlight to turn its acidity into sugar.
No greenhouses, no hydroponics — just soil, breeze, and time.
Traditionally, the plants are trained on wooden frames of chestnut poles tied with hemp twine, keeping the fruit off the ground.
Many smallholders still do it this way, their rows of canes standing like open books against the wind.
The yield is modest, but each tomato is rich, meaty and low in water — perfect for a sauce that clings rather than runs.
It’s agriculture at human speed: low volume, high devotion.
4 · From Field to Pot
Come August, an unmistakable scent fills the villages of the Chieti hills — hot oil, basil and tomatoes bubbling slowly in vast pots.
It’s the perfume of la salsa, the annual ritual of tomato preserving.
Families gather for the occasion: the elders peel, the children fill bottles, the men seal and boil them in great copper cauldrons.
The Pomodoro a Pera becomes the thread that ties generations together — an annual act of continuity disguised as domestic work.
The tomato’s thick flesh needs no sugar, no additives, no tricks.
It cooks evenly, binds naturally with olive oil and leaves no trace of water.
When the last bottle is finished, the scent still lingers — sun preserved in glass.
5 · A Tomato That Fears No Ragù
This tomato was made for Maccheroni alla Chitarra, the iconic Abruzzese pasta with square edges and confidence to match.
As the pasta dries on its wooden frame, the sauce simmers away: olive oil from Chieti, a whisper of onion, a few leaves of basil, and an avalanche of chopped pear tomatoes.
Patience is key.
The sauce doesn’t “cook” so much as evolve.
After two slow hours it thickens into velvet, darkens from red to brick, and gains that characteristic Abruzzo depth — the balance of sweetness and strength.
It’s the moment when the kitchen turns silent except for the sound of bubbles.
That’s when you know the sauce is ready for the chitarra.
A Symbol Preserved
In 2008, Slow Food recognised the Pomodoro a Pera d’Abruzzo as an official Presidium, protecting it from extinction.
Industrial farming had nearly wiped it out, favouring higher-yield, thick-skinned cultivars.
Today, about thirty small producers continue the tradition, saving and sharing the original seeds and respecting natural rhythms.
The “Pomodoro a Pera d’Abruzzo” association, based in Francavilla al Mare, coordinates their work and promotes the tomato in farmers’ markets and restaurants.
Those who buy it fresh know the signs: a glowing red skin that peels away at a touch, a scent that seems halfway between fruit and sunshine.
The Science Behind the Sweetness
Romance aside, this tomato has credentials.
Research from the University of Teramo found that the Pomodoro a Pera contains higher levels of lycopene — the antioxidant pigment linked to heart health — than most commercial varieties.
That’s because its slower ripening allows more pigment and sugar to accumulate under the intense Abruzzese light.
Its thin skin disintegrates in cooking, which means you don’t need to strain the sauce.
And its low moisture and high pectin content give sauces that perfect, clingy body chefs dream about.
It’s chemistry with soul.
8 · Where It Lives Today
You won’t find this tomato in supermarkets.
It survives in farmers’ markets and small grocers along the Adriatic coast, often sold in wooden crates rather than plastic trays.
The core growing areas remain Ortona, Miglianico, Casoli, Lanciano, Fossacesia and Torino di Sangro, where the red fruit glows between rows of olive trees.
Chefs have quietly rediscovered it.
At Villa Maiella in Guardiagrele, the Tinari family use it in their summer sauces.
At Taverna 58 in Pescara, it anchors their seafood ragù.
Even local pasta makers feature it in ready sauces or semi-dried versions, bottling the flavour of August for the colder months.
9 · The Paradox of Simplicity
For all its modesty, the Pomodoro a Pera d’Abruzzo symbolises Italy at its most brilliant: the art of turning poverty into poetry.
It’s a farmer’s tomato with a noble character — scorned by industry for its low yield, yet impossible to replace because of its taste.
In that sense, it mirrors the region that grows it: tough, understated, unhurried, but full of fire when it counts.
Inside each fruit lies a small manifesto of resistance — proof that perfection isn’t about uniformity, but about honesty.
10 · Fun Facts & Curiosities
-
Each plant produces only 4–5 kilos of fruit, roughly half that of industrial varieties.
-
Locals call it “the grandmother’s tomato”, because every generation has kept at least one seed line alive.
-
Lycopene levels increase by up to 35% after long cooking — the longer you simmer it, the healthier it gets.
-
Francavilla al Mare hosts an annual Sagra del Pomodoro a Pera, where judges award the “slowest sauce in Abruzzo.”
-
In local dialect, people say “Lu pommidor che t’arap lu core” — “the tomato that opens your heart.”
-
Traditional farmers still “marry” each plant to a stake with hemp twine — a local ritual known as maritare i pomodori, believed to bring luck to the harvest.
11 · Reflection — The Tomato That Listens
In a world of perfect, plastic-looking tomatoes, this one remains slightly crooked, slightly fragile, and entirely itself.
It doesn’t demand admiration; it earns affection.
It’s the tomato that listens — to the wind, the soil, and the patience of the people who grow it.
When you finish a plate of Maccheroni alla Chitarra with Pomodoro a Pera d’Abruzzo, you’re not tasting a condiment; you’re tasting a landscape.
From seed to sauce, from sunlight to simmering pot, it’s a journey in flavour and restraint.
Simplicity, when done well, isn’t poverty.
It’s precision.
And in Abruzzo, precision and passion have always been the same thing.